5 Days in Amsterdam: A Slower Itinerary with Tulips and Windmills

by Bubbly
7 min read
The Royal Palace and the Nieuwe Kerk on a crowded Dam Square, Amsterdam, under a clear blue sky

Three days in Amsterdam covers the big sights. Five days lets them breathe. There is time to see the Rijksmuseum without rushing the Vermeers, to give Keukenhof the full day it deserves, and to finish the trip on the water instead of in a queue.

This plan keeps each day in one part of the city, with one day out to the bulb fields and one to the windmills. Day 1 is the old centre. Days 2 and 3 belong to the Museum Quarter. Day 4 is Keukenhof, and Day 5 starts in De Pijp and ends with a canal cruise.

Amsterdam in 5 Days — The Plan
📅 Day 1 · Old centre · Greenwoods, Dam Square and the Royal Palace, a drink at ‘t Nieuwe Kafé, a Red Light District walking tour, dinner at FuLu Mandarijn.
📅 Day 2 · Rijksmuseum, slowly · The Gallery of Honour early, the gardens, then Vondelpark’s floating tulips.
📅 Day 3 · Museumplein · Moco, the Heineken Experience, the Van Gogh Museum after 3pm, dinner at The Duchess.
📅 Day 4 · Keukenhof · The whole day in the tulip garden (the reason for a five-day plan).
📅 Day 5 · De Pijp, Zaanse Schans & a cruise · Breakfast in De Pijp, windmills in the afternoon, a farewell canal cruise.
💡 Out of season? Swap Day 4 for a train day trip — Haarlem, Delft or The Hague.

Day 1: The Old Centre

Start with breakfast at Greenwoods on the Singel. It is popular, and by midday the queue runs along the pavement, so go early.

Diners under the red umbrella at Greenwoods on the Singel, with a queue waiting along the pavement on the right
Greenwoods opened on the Singel in September 1988 and bills itself as the city’s first brunch restaurant. In 2021 it opened a sister branch on Frederick Street in Edinburgh, Scotland.

From the Singel, walk to Dam Square for the Royal Palace, built as Amsterdam’s town hall and turned into a royal palace by Louis Bonaparte in 1808. Across the square stands the National Monument, unveiled in 1956.

Then stop for a drink on the terrace at ‘t Nieuwe Kafé, which is part of the Nieuwe Kerk and faces the palace. I walked past it more times than I can count before I finally got a table, because people hog the tables on a sunny day. The upside is that nobody rushes anyone either.

A packed terrace at 't Nieuwe Kafe on Dam Square, with greenery in white planters and cream Coffee-Drinks-Pastries umbrellas
Han and Itel de Jong opened the café in the early 1980s, and it is still a family business. Upstairs, the café runs the Eggertzaal, a function room with windows over the Dam.

In the late afternoon, take a walking tour of the Red Light District, past the Oude Kerk. Since 2020, guided groups are not allowed to pass the windows, so tours keep to the outskirts, and the good ones are very informative. Ours covered the history, the rules and the neighbourhood, and our guide’s matter-of-fact stories had the whole group laughing.

The tower of the Oude Kerk in Amsterdam against a blue sky, with a no-alcohol sign and a pedestrian zone sign in front
The Oude Kerk, consecrated in 1306, is the oldest building in Amsterdam. The no-alcohol sign reflects the district’s rules: shops may not sell alcohol there from Thursday to Sunday after 4pm.

Finish with dinner at FuLu Mandarijn on the Rokin. The Sichuan dishes there beat what I have had in Montreal, in New York, and even at Chinacy in Vienna. My favourite was the honey mustard chicken.

Day 2: The Rijksmuseum, Slowly

Book the earliest Rijksmuseum slot available and go straight to the Gallery of Honour, before the tour groups arrive. When I was there, the queues were everywhere, partly because several groups kept converging on the same paintings. It was the first time I had seen a Vermeer up close, and I wished I had more time to stare.

Crowds and benches in the Rijksmuseum's Gallery of Honour, with Rembrandt's Syndics drawing a group on the right
The painting pulling in the crowd on the right is Rembrandt’s Syndics, 279 centimetres wide. The frieze above the bays carries the names and dates of Dutch painters, including Adriaen van Ostade, 1610 to 1685.

With five days, there is time to linger: the Vermeers, Asselijn’s Threatened Swan, Rembrandt’s Syndics and his late self-portrait as the Apostle Paul, and the maritime gallery afterwards. Then step out into the Rijksmuseum gardens, which are free to enter. They were peaceful and serene, full of people unwinding, chatting and reading their books.

In the afternoon, walk to Vondelpark. In April, the Tulp Festival puts floating planters of tulips on one of its ponds.

Tulips in floating planters on a still pond in Vondelpark, Amsterdam, with trees reflected in the water
The park opened in 1865 as the Nieuwe Park. People began calling it Vondel’s park after a statue of the poet Joost van den Vondel was placed there in 1867, and the name became official in 1880.

Day 3: Moco, Heineken and Van Gogh

Start Day 3 at Moco, on the edge of Museumplein, in a villa designed by Eduard Cuypers, the nephew of the Rijksmuseum’s architect. I went for Banksy, and the collection runs from Warhol and Haring to Basquiat.

Moco seen from the park side under plane trees, with benches, tulip planters and a large red sculpture by the fence
Villa Alsberg was built in 1904 for the banker Siegmund Alsberg and stayed a family home until 1939. It was one of the first private homes on Museumplein, and Moco opened there in April 2016.

At midday, walk to the Heineken Experience on Stadhouderskade, at the edge of De Pijp. We took the VIP tour, and the F1 room, the games room and Freddy’s Bar are all worth looking out for.

Heineken Experience entrance hall with hundreds of green bottles on the ceiling and staff in orange shirts
Heineken stopped brewing in this building in 1988, and it opened to visitors in 1991. The star on the wall carries the date 1873, but the family business goes back to 1864.

Back on Museumplein, grab lunch from the food trucks and picnic tables, or sit on the lawn. Then save the Van Gogh Museum, with its curved Kurokawa wing, for after 3pm, when the morning rush has thinned. Tickets are sold online only, with timed slots. Almond Blossom is my favourite painting there, and I brought home the magnet and the coaster.

People picnicking on the lawn beside the curved grey Kurokawa wing of the Van Gogh Museum on Museumplein
The oval exhibition wing facing the lawn was designed by the Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa and opened in 1999. Much of it is built underground, so it rises only modestly above the grass.

For dinner, book The Duchess, in the old banking hall of the W Amsterdam‘s Bank building. I did not expect to love the pasta as much as I did. The hand-crafted pasta with braised short rib was our favourite, and the cacio e pepe took us straight back to Rome. Skip the drinks and order wine. For cocktails, the W Lounge on the roof across the street is more fun.

The Duchess dining room in Amsterdam, with rings of hanging bulbs under a glass roof and a standing clock among the tables
The KAS Bank building was designed by F.W.M. Poggenbeek in 1908, with the grand banking hall one floor up. The Duchess fills that hall today, under a glass roof rebuilt during the hotel conversion.

Day 4: Keukenhof, the Whole Day

Day 4 is the reason for a five-day plan. Keukenhof, near Lisse, went above and beyond my expectations. I am Canadian and had been to Ottawa’s tulip festival, so I arrived sceptical, and left calling it a tulip Disneyworld. The little ones were running off to explore, and the adults were simply in awe.

Beds of red, pink, yellow and white tulips along a narrow water channel at Keukenhof, with grape hyacinths and tall trees
Keukenhof displays around 800 tulip varieties, and around seven million bulbs are planted there by hand every autumn. Beds like these run right up to the edges of its channels.

My one regret is that a tour gave it only half a day. Give it the whole day. Keukenhof only opens in spring, roughly from mid-March to early May. Outside the season, swap Day 4 for a day trip by train: Haarlem is 15 to 20 minutes away, and Delft and The Hague are close enough to combine.

Day 5: De Pijp, Zaanse Schans and a Farewell Cruise

Start the last day with breakfast on Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat in De Pijp, which has Locals, Flow and Bakers & Roasters on the same street. On the morning after King’s Day, the wait at Flow ran past an hour.

Then head out to Zaanse Schans for the afternoon. The windmills, De Kat among them, were lovely, the cheese and clog-making demonstrations were excellent, and the pancakes were amazing. It was a memorable, relaxing afternoon, which makes it a good fit for a final day.

Windmills at Zaanse Schans, including De Kat, with visitors walking along the paths in front on a sunny day
Zaanse Schans has no gate and no entry fee for walking around the village. The charges only come in if visitors choose to go inside one of the mills or museums.

Finish the trip back in Amsterdam with a canal cruise. Flagship Amsterdam runs small, fully electric boats, and seeing the canal houses and houseboats from the water is a lovely way to say goodbye.

A Flagship Amsterdam saloon boat on a tree-lined canal, with parked bikes, canal houses and a bridge behind
Amsterdam’s canal ring was dug in the 17th century and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010. Flagship’s boats depart from stops including Prinsengracht 263 and Museumbrug 1, in front of the Rijksmuseum.

Where to Stay

We stayed at the W Amsterdam on Spuistraat, just behind the Royal Palace, which puts Day 1 on the doorstep. The hotel was changing operator when we stayed, and I worried the service would suffer. It did not. The service was attentive and excellent. The Exchange building is not much to look at from the outside, but the rooms are modern and groovy, and the W Lounge on the roof, with its outdoor terrace, is stunning.

The gold W sign outside the W Amsterdam at Spuistraat 172, beside the wooden entrance doors and a gold planter
Number 172 is the former KAS Bank building, the W’s second building across the street from the Exchange. It holds 66 of the hotel’s 238 rooms. The W Amsterdam opened in October 2015.

Getting Around

Walking covers most of this plan. Tram 2 runs from Dam Square to the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum and Vondelpark, and paying is simple: tap a contactless bank card or phone when boarding and again when getting off, using the same card both times. Keukenhof and Zaanse Schans can both be reached on a tour or by public transport from Amsterdam. Watch for bikes everywhere.

Bubbly Tips

  • Book timed tickets early. The Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum both need a booked slot, and the Van Gogh Museum sells online only.
  • Do the Gallery of Honour first. Tour groups converge on the same paintings from late morning.
  • Give Keukenhof its own day. Many tours bundle it with Zaanse Schans, and Keukenhof is the one that loses out.
  • Check Keukenhof’s dates. The 2027 season runs from 18 March to 9 May.
  • Never photograph the windows in the Red Light District. It is considered offensive, and it is one reason the city banned tours past them.
  • Visit Vondelpark in April for floating tulips. They are part of the Tulp Festival, which runs only from 1 to 30 April.
  • Choose wine at The Duchess. Save the cocktails for the W Lounge.
  • Tap in and tap out on trams. Use the same card or phone for both taps.
  • Plan around King’s Day. On 27 April, the canals are packed and trams through the centre stop running, while the Museum Quarter stays much quieter.

Final Thoughts

Five days in Amsterdam is enough to stop rushing. The Vermeers get the time they deserve, Keukenhof gets the whole day, and the trip ends on the water rather than in a queue.

If I planned it again, the one thing I would change is the one this itinerary fixes: a full day at Keukenhof.

Until next time!

Bubbly

xoxo,
Bubbly 🎈


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