I did not book my Amsterdam trip for King’s Day. I booked it for the tulips, worked out later that the dates covered 27 April, and spent a while wishing they did …
Before this trip, every stroopwafel I had eaten came out of a supermarket packet. Sealed, room temperature, perfectly fine. I went to Amsterdam wanting to find out what the thing was supposed …
Amsterdam was full when I was there. Not busy in the ordinary way a capital city is busy, but full, with the whole country apparently in town at once and the canals …
I went to Amsterdam for two things. Tulips, because I had wanted to see them properly for years, and Van Gogh, because a museum devoted to one painter is a rare thing …
Migration is not only a Greek story, or an Italian one. It belongs to everyone, everywhere, and it always has: the leaving, the packing of a whole life into one suitcase, and …
Travel is not only palaces and pastries. Part of why I travel is to understand places, and understanding a place means meeting its history, including the parts that are hard to look …