Travel is not only palaces and pastries. Part of why I travel is to understand places, and understanding a place means meeting its history, including the parts that are hard to look …

Three days in London is a highlights reel. Five days is a holiday. I have already written up the tight three-day version for a first visit, the one that races through the …

On my first visit to Tate Modern in London, I came for a giant spider and stayed for the paintings, which I did not see coming. One set of rooms held me …

London is a city that could fill a lifetime and still hold more. And yet some of my favourite days there were the ones I spent leaving it. There is a particular …

I went to Tate Modern for one thing, and it was not a painting. It was a spider. Louise Bourgeois’s giant Maman is one of my favourite sculptures anywhere, and Tate owns …

Three days is not enough for London. I want to say that at the top, because every itinerary that promises otherwise is lying to somebody. What three days is enough for is …