Amsterdam was full when I was there. Not busy in the ordinary way a capital city is busy, but full, with the whole country apparently in town at once and the canals …

I went to Amsterdam for two things. Tulips, because I had wanted to see them properly for years, and Van Gogh, because a museum devoted to one painter is a rare thing …

Migration is not only a Greek story, or an Italian one. It belongs to everyone, everywhere, and it always has: the leaving, the packing of a whole life into one suitcase, and …

Travel is not only palaces and pastries. Part of why I travel is to understand places, and understanding a place means meeting its history, including the parts that are hard to look …

Three days in London is a highlights reel. Five days is a holiday. I have already written up the tight three-day version for a first visit, the one that races through the …

On my first visit to Tate Modern in London, I came for a giant spider and stayed for the paintings, which I did not see coming. One set of rooms held me …