Most of my long trips begin with a red-eye out of Montreal, and a fair number of those red-eyes put me down at Schiphol with hours to spend before the next leg. …
Hello, fellow adventurers! Some places feel important the moment you arrive. Not because they overwhelm you, but because they carry weight – quietly, steadily, and with purpose. Parliament Hill in Ottawa is …
I went to Tate Modern in London to see a spider, and the spider was gone. That is the short version. The longer one is that Louise Bourgeois’s Maman is one of …
I had not planned to stop here. After Trafalgar Square, the plan was to find a cab back to the hotel and call it a day. Then I crossed the Strand, looked …
Trafalgar Square in December is a different place than Trafalgar Square in July. The Christmas tree is lit. The carol singers are gathered around its base. The lions at the foot of …
I walked into the Natural History Museum on a December afternoon expecting to see Dippy. I had forgotten that Dippy had been gone since 2017. What was hanging above the central staircase …
I had expected the crypt to feel eerie. It doesn’t. The first time you walk down the stairs from the cathedral floor and turn the corner into the main chamber, what strikes …
After a morning at the Tate Modern, I walked east along the south bank of the Thames toward Borough Market. The walk takes about fifteen minutes if you stay along the river. …
After a morning at the Tower of London, I took a cab to St Paul’s Cathedral. The rain was coming down hard enough that walking the half-hour along the Thames, the better …
