Most of my long trips begin with a red-eye out of Montreal, and a fair number of those red-eyes put me down at Schiphol with hours to spend before the next leg. …
Hello, fellow adventurers! Some places feel important the moment you arrive. Not because they overwhelm you, but because they carry weight – quietly, steadily, and with purpose. Parliament Hill in Ottawa is …
I went to Tate Modern in London to see a spider, and the spider was gone. That is the short version. The longer one is that Louise Bourgeois’s Maman is one of …
Across the street from Harrods, on the curve of Hans Crescent, there is a café that glows pink even in December. EL&N London had a garland of silver baubles around the door, …
You do not need a ticket to see the best of Buckingham Palace. The building you picture when you think of London (the long pale front, the gold-tipped railings, the balcony) is …
A few steps below the pavements of Whitehall, behind a plain door near Downing Street, there is a basement where Britain ran the Second World War. The Churchill War Rooms are not …
You smell Winter Wonderland before you see it: roasted nuts, mulled wine, fried dough on the cold air. Then you come through the gate and the lights hit you, a tunnel of …
You see Stonehenge from a distance before you reach it, a grey cluster of stones alone on open grassland, and the first thing it does is stop you. I had seen it …
We came to Street Pizza straight from St Paul’s Cathedral, which turns out to be exactly the right order of events. You spend an hour craning your neck up at a dome, …
