There is a right way and a wrong way to arrive at a brewery tour. The wrong way is on an empty stomach at eleven in the morning, having walked several kilometres …

I went to Moco Museum in Amsterdam for the Banksys. That was the whole plan. The stencils, the rats, the girl with the balloon, and then out through the shop and home. …

I booked the W Amsterdam in February. A week later a court in Amsterdam ordered the company running it to leave the premises, and every travel forum I read told people to …

There is a line painted on the wall at Moco in Amsterdam, in dripping letters imitating Banksy’s stencil style, that says if graffiti changed anything it would be illegal. He did not …

I found this place in Amsterdam by accident. I was hungry, it was late, I had no reservation and I wanted somewhere that would take me anyway. Four days later I went …

The question I kept asking myself on the way out was why I had waited so long. I have been to Barcelona. I have been to London. Moco has a museum in …

I am a LEGO person. I have the Sunflowers set on a wall at home, I have been counting down to the Klimt one, and a city with a flagship LEGO store …

I did not book my Amsterdam trip for King’s Day. I booked it for the tulips, worked out later that the dates covered 27 April, and spent a while wishing they did …

Before this trip, every stroopwafel I had eaten came out of a supermarket packet. Sealed, room temperature, perfectly fine. I went to Amsterdam wanting to find out what the thing was supposed …

Amsterdam was full when I was there. Not busy in the ordinary way a capital city is busy, but full, with the whole country apparently in town at once and the canals …

I went to Amsterdam for two things. Tulips, because I had wanted to see them properly for years, and Van Gogh, because a museum devoted to one painter is a rare thing …

Migration is not only a Greek story, or an Italian one. It belongs to everyone, everywhere, and it always has: the leaving, the packing of a whole life into one suitcase, and …