Olá friends! 💛 One of the best parts about wandering Lisbon is discovering the kind of place you wouldn’t necessarily find in a guidebook—but that instantly feels like home. O Castiço, tucked away on Rua dos Sapateirosin the heart of Baixa, is exactly that kind of place. A charming and unpretentious eatery that won me over with its warmth, tradition, and absolutely delicious food.
I stopped in on a cool December evening, lured by the glowing interior and the comforting aroma of garlic and olive oil that spilled into the street. The space is small and intimate, with rustic tiles, dark wood tables, and a cozy, lived-in feel that makes you want to sit down and stay awhile. Traditional Portuguese music played softly in the background as locals chatted over wine and seafood. And the service? So kind. The team greeted me with a smile and made me feel like a regular, even though it was my first visit.
What I Ordered
Everything I sampled was cooked with heart and soul—no pretension, just honest, traditional flavors that made my taste buds dance.
🦐 Gambas à Guilho: These garlic shrimp were sizzling hot and absolutely divine. Swimming in garlicky olive oil with just the right amount of chili, they were tender, fragrant, and the perfect way to start the meal. I soaked up every drop of that sauce with fresh bread. Pure joy!

🐙 Polvo à Lagareiro: One of my favorite Portuguese dishes—and O Castiço did it beautifully. The octopus was grilled to tender perfection and served over roasted potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli, drizzled with olive oil and herbs. Earthy, flavorful, and deeply satisfying.

🐟 Bacalhau à Lagareiro: This dish always feels like a warm hug. The salt cod was rich, flaky, and packed with depth, served with caramelized onions and olive oil over soft, roasted potatoes. Every bite was comforting and full of soul.

🥘 Paella Señorito: A seafood lover’s dream! This paella was generous and aromatic, with shrimp, clams, and calamari all nestled in perfectly cooked rice. It had a slightly smoky flavor, and the saffron came through without overpowering the other ingredients.

Ambiance, Service & Charm
What truly elevates O Castiço is the ambiance. The space is warm, welcoming, and authentically Portuguese. It’s not trendy or modern—and that’s exactly why I loved it. There’s a timeless quality to the way the place looks and feels.

The staff were kind and attentive and happy to explain the delicious menu. Their pride in the food and their warmth made the experience even more special. This wasn’t just dinner—it felt like being invited into someone’s family kitchen.
Final Thoughts
If you’re looking for a genuinely local experience in the heart of Lisbon, O Castiço is a gem. It’s the kind of place where you sit elbow-to-elbow with locals, eat slowly, drink wine, and truly soak in the spirit of the city. I left with a full heart, a full belly, and a big smile.
Whether you’re craving garlic shrimp, perfectly grilled octopus, or comforting bacalhau, this little spot serves it up with flavor, care, and love.
xoxo,
Bubbly💕