Hola, travelers! After exploring the basilica and standing before the Black Madonna, something in me wasn’t quite done with Montserrat. The mountains were still calling, gently but insistently. Montserrat isn’t just a place you visit; it’s a place that pulls you higher, a landscape shaped by time and faith and geology, made to be climbed and experienced. And there’s no better way to step into that upper world than by taking the Funicular de Sant Joan, the highest accessible viewpoint on the mountain.
I visited on a warm, sunny afternoon, blue sky overhead, crisp air settling around the peaks, and that quiet traveler’s thrill when you know you’re about to witness something unforgettable. And let me tell you: Montserrat from above is a dream made of stone and sky.
The Sant Joan Funicular – A Ride Toward Heaven
The moment the funicular doors closed, the world outside began its slow, steady tilt skyward. The Funicular de Sant Joan, originally opened in 1918 and completely renovated in 1997, climbs 248 meters along one of the steepest slopes in Catalonia. Thanks to its panoramic glass design, the entire journey feels like floating, nothing between you and the vastness unfolding below.
As we ascended, the monastery shrank into a cluster of ochre rooftops, its courtyard and basilica suddenly delicate against the jagged cliffs. Montserrat’s famous serrated peaks, the “sawn mountain”, stretched out like the spine of a mythical creature. The hills rolled effortlessly into valleys, and beyond them the Catalan countryside spilled out in soft blues and greens, wider and wider with every meter gained.
I found myself lifting my camera repeatedly, knowing full well that no photo could ever capture the feeling of rising through this landscape. It’s the kind of view that humbles you in the best possible way.
At the Summit – Stepping Into the Sky
Stepping out of the funicular at Pla de les Taràntules feels like emerging into another world entirely. The air shifts immediately – cooler, cleaner, touched with the scent of sun-warmed stone and wild mountain herbs. The viewpoints at the top open in every direction, offering a sweeping, uninterrupted panorama of Montserrat’s jagged cliffs, rolling forests, and vast countryside stretching all the way toward Manresa and beyond. The monastery appears far below like a golden miniature tucked into the mountain’s folds, while distant ranges fade into a soft blue haze that seems to melt into the horizon.
There’s a quietness here that settles almost instantly. The bustle around the basilica feels miles away. Up here, the only sounds are the whisper of the wind brushing the peaks, the occasional birdsong, and the soft crunch of nearby footsteps. I stood by the railing for a long moment, watching how the breeze rippled across the landscape in waves, how the shadows shifted gently over the stone ridges. It felt like a deep exhale, the world simplified to rock, sky, and breath.
Hiking Along the Peaks – Montserrat’s Wild Heart
From the summit, I followed one of the marked trails that winds across Montserrat’s upper ridge, a path that isn’t difficult, but somehow manages to feel spectacular from the very first step. These heights reveal the mountain’s most dramatic geology: enormous, rounded rock towers carved over millions of years, cliffs that plunge into pine-filled ravines, and open ridgelines that make you feel like you’re walking along the top of the world.
Every bend revealed something new, a hermitage perched on an impossible ledge, a sudden window into the valley far below, clouds drifting silently across the peaks as if they were part of the mountain itself. The monastery, now so far beneath me, looked serene and small, almost like a painting set against the cliffs.
The trail carried the scent of rosemary and thyme, wild and fragrant under the sun. I found myself stopping often, not out of tiredness, but because the silence felt so rare and restorative. My rhythm slowed naturally. My breath matched the easy pace of the mountain. In those quiet pauses, it was easy to understand why generations of pilgrims and monks wandered these paths – not just for the views, but for the way Montserrat seems to tune your body and mind to something calmer.
Moments That Stay With You
There was one moment that will stay with me forever, a simple stillness that felt almost sacred. I stepped onto a small viewpoint by myself, the kind you might miss if you weren’t paying attention. The monastery shimmered below, tiny and golden in the afternoon light. The sky arched endlessly above, clear and wide. The sun warmed my shoulders, and there was not a single sound except the wind moving gently through the rocks.
For a few seconds, everything aligned: the silence, the light, the height, the sheer beauty of the mountain. It wasn’t dramatic or emotional in a loud way – it was quiet, grounding, and deeply human. One of those rare travel moments where you recognize how small you are and how vast the world can feel, and somehow that realization is comforting rather than overwhelming. Montserrat has a talent for moments like this. It lifts you, steadies you, and leaves you with a kind of clarity that lingers long after you descend.
Bubbly Tips
- Funicular Station: Funicular de Sant Joan (right beside the upper monastery complex)
- Tickets: Available on-site or online; included in many Montserrat combined tickets
- Best Time to Ride: Morning for soft light; afternoon for dramatic shadows (my choice!)
- Shoes: Wear proper walking shoes, the summit trails are rocky but worth every step
- Weather: It’s cooler at the top; bring a light layer even on warm days
- Photo Tip: Walk slightly left upon exiting, the cleanest, most panoramic viewpoint awaits
- Time Needed: Minimum 2 hours for hiking; ~45 minutes if only going up to enjoy the view
Final Thoughts
Riding the Sant Joan Funicular is more than a scenic activity, it’s a journey into the soul of Montserrat. From the thrilling ascent to the serene mountaintop trails, the entire experience reminds you how expansive the world can feel when you rise just a little higher.
If you’re already visiting the monastery or the Black Madonna, do yourself the sweetest favor: take the funicular. Let Montserrat show you its wild side, its quiet heights, its sky-level calm. You’ll come down changed, even if just a little.
Have you taken the Sant Joan funicular or hiked Montserrat’s upper paths? Tell me your favorite moment, I’d love to hear it.
xoxo,
Bubbly🎈
