Olá, friends! 💫 There are places in Lisbon where history doesn’t just sit behind glass—it hums beneath your feet and dances across stone walls. One such place is the unforgettable Casa dos Bicos, tucked into the eastern edge of Alfama, where Roman ruins, Manueline architecture, and literary legacy all come together in the most unexpected harmony.
I visited on a crisp December afternoon, the low golden sun casting a glow over the iconic diamond-studded façade. I had read about its connection to Nobel Prize-winning author José Saramago, but I wasn’t expecting the surprise that waited below.
A House with Many Lives
Built in 1523 by Brás de Albuquerque, Casa dos Bicos stands out with its unique spiky stone exterior, inspired by Italian Renaissance architecture. It’s a beautiful mishmash of Manueline windows, Renaissance symmetry, and Gothic flair—an architectural rebel that refuses to follow just one style. But beyond its unusual good looks, this place holds centuries of stories—from noble family home to earthquake survivor, fish warehouse, and now, a vibrant cultural site.
The Roman Remains Below
The true surprise lies beneath the ground floor. During restoration efforts, archaeologists uncovered remnants of Roman industrial structures from ancient Olisipo, Lisbon’s name during Roman times. You can still see part of a Roman fish-salting facility, including preserved tanks used to produce garum—a fermented fish sauce that was a prized delicacy across the Roman Empire. There are also remnants of Roman walls and hints of later Moorish occupation.
Walking through the space feels surreal—like slipping between layers of time. The lighting is soft, the air cool, and the ruins are beautifully preserved under glass flooring and walkways. It’s a quiet but powerful moment of connection to Lisbon’s ancient soul.
The Saramago Connection
On the upper floors, Casa dos Bicos houses the José Saramago Foundation, dedicated to the life and works of Portugal’s most celebrated literary figure. It features personal artifacts, manuscripts, and rotating exhibits that showcase his thought-provoking voice. Just outside, you’ll find a peaceful olive tree, transplanted from Saramago’s hometown of Azinhaga. Beneath it lie his ashes, creating a quiet and moving tribute to the writer. A small plaque honors his legacy, reminding visitors of the enduring power of literature and memory.
Final Thoughts
Casa dos Bicos is one of those places that stays with you long after you’ve left. What starts as a photo op quickly turns into a multi-layered journey—through time, literature, and Lisbon’s resilient spirit. Whether you’re drawn in by its quirky façade, its connection to José Saramago, or the allure of Roman ruins below, this is a stop that rewards curiosity with wonder.
If you find yourself wandering through Alfama or near the riverside, don’t just pass by—step inside. You may find yourself, like I did, quietly captivated by the heartbeat of Lisbon itself.
xoxo,
Bubbly💕
